Fingerless gloves by Anthea Turner

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

The new face of Get Britain Crafting, Anthea Turner, shares her exclusive Fingerless gloves pattern with Knitting magazine

Having been taught to knit and crochet as a child, last year I decided to pick up my needles again and re-teach myself. With autumn now just around the corner, the last few weeks have been the perfect time for me to put my practice to the test by knitting some fingerless mittens! I've loved making and wearing these - not only are they easier to knit than the more traditional style, but I find them so much more practical. I can keep my hands warm whilst leaving my fingers free to get on with all the things that need doing; it makes rooting around in my handbag for my keys, phone and lippie so much easier! I've even knitted another pair to wear whilst in the stables tending to my horse Caramelo. I'm about to embark on making a few extra pairs to give as gifts this Christmas - they are really easy to personalize by using different coloured wool and I may even add some pretty beads and sequins to pairs for my girlfriends and step-daughters.

You will need

Yarn

Rowan Wool Cotton 4ply in shades 494 Hedge (A), 492 Sea (B) and 485 Flower (C)

Needles 

3.25mm needles                                                    

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm using 3.25mm needles and measured over st st.

Measurements

One size to fit average size hand

Abbreviations

K2tog = knit 2 sts together

Sl1, K1, psso = slip1st  knitways, knit one , pass the slipped stitch over.

F&b = front and back

 

Right mitt

*Using 3.25mm needles and yarn C, cast on 237 sts.

Frilled edging

Row 1 (RS): K1, *K2, slip the first st on the RH needle over the second; rep from * to end. (119 sts)

Row 2: K1, *P2tog; rep from * to end. (60 sts).

Knit 2 rows. Break yarn C.

 

Commence pattern

Row 1: K2, sl1, K1, psso, K to last 4sts, K2tog, K2 in yarn A.

Row 2: Purl in A.

Row 3: K2, sl1, K1, psso, K to last 4sts, K2tog, K2 in B.

Row 4: Purl in B.

Repeat last 4 rows once more and then Rows 1-2 again. (50sts).

Keeping stripes correct, continue as follows:

Work 4 rows.*

 

Shape for thumb

Row 1(RS): K25, Kf&b of next st, K2, Kf&b of next st, K21. (52 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 5: K25, Kf&b of next st, K4, Kf&b of next st, K21. (54 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 9: K25, Kf&b of next st, K6, Kf&b of next st, K21. (56 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 13: K25, Kf&b of next st, K8, Kf&b of next st, K21. (58 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 17: K25, Kf&b of next st, K10, Kf&b of next st, K21. (60 sts).

Work 1 row.

Row 19: K39, turn and cast on one st.

**Row 20: P14, turn and cast on one st. (15 sts).

Work 8 rows on these sts only.

Break yarns A and B and join in yarn C.

Knit 1 row and then cast off knitwise on WS of work.

 

Join thumb seam

With RS of work facing, rejoin yarn A at base of thumb. Pick up and K 4sts from the base of the thumb and K to end. (51sts).

Work a further 17 rows. Break yarns A and B. join in yarn C.

Knit 3 rows.

Cast off on WS of work.

 

Left mitt

Work as for Right mitt from * to *.

Shape for thumb

Row 1(RS): K20, Kf&b of next st, K2, Kf&b of next st, K26. (52 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 5: K20, Kf&b of next st, K4, Kf&b of next st, K26. (54 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 9: K20, Kf&b of next st, K6, Kf&b of next st, K26. (56 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 13: K20, Kf&b of next st, K8, Kf&b of next st, K26. (58 sts).

Work 3 rows.

Row 17: K20, Kf&b of next st, K10, Kf&b of next st, K26. (60 sts).

Work 1 row.

Row 19: K34, turn and cast on one st.

Complete as for Right mitt from **.

 

Making up

1. Weave in any loose ends and press according to ball band instructions, avoiding frills and garter stitch edging.

2. Using back stitch, or mattress stitch if preferred, join side seams.

 

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